Unfortunately debugging WebExtensions is a pain at the moment. A related bug.
The only thing you can do at this time is use debugger;
statements to set the breakpoints in the code. The debugger you need is Browser Toolbox.
Open the Browser Toolbox, focus the debugger tab, wait for the sources to load and then trigger your code to reach those statements. Proceed as usual.
As for reloading things, browser action was supposedly fixed and the background is executed every time you disable and re-enable your addon.
However, Firefox suffers from various code cache issues since forever so disabling and re-enabling your addon might not pick up any changes. Your best bet is restarting the browser every time. There is also a discussion to support live reload.